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What Outlet Should You Buy For Your Home | Commercial vs Residential

Added by: Everyday Home Repairs

@alexruggiero4088

YOUTUBE: time saver electrical switch

@alexruggiero4088

Want to be amazed?
—-REPLACE receptacles and switches W/O touching the wires!
—No EXPOSED electrically charged parts
—COMPLETE installation on the first day at the work site.
YOUTUBE:knee saver electrical box

@michaeljavert4635

If hot does short to ground, the breaker or fuse is supposed to blow immediately so that shouldn't be a problem. Where arcing is occurring that is the worst is if there is a loose hot or loose neutral that's got just enough room to wiggle around, that's when you're going to get overheating, arcing, and fire. This is another reason I am so bullish on grounding. If the hot comes into contact with something it will trip. As for the other problem, that's more of a GFCI AFCI which is required in newer builds I believe.

I wish the NEC had broader authority and made a receptacle, outlet, whatever you want to call it, have a minimum specification of the contractor grade, then these bargain bins would go to the rubbish bin, where they should be. So yes, a little bit of dictatorship where the garbage is not allowed to be sold and disappears. If there is a code, then all products sold must be code. For example, Tamper Resistant is code, so then, why the hell are they still allowed to sell stuff that doesn't meet code, is unsafe, and a fire hazard, shock hazard, etc ?

I, and probably most other people assume that if it is sold in the store, then it must be compliant. Now that I know it is not the case, I wish I realized this before. Am I going to change all my plugs, outlets, breakers ? No. But when I do have a problem, I am going to replace the entire thing with the good stuff. For example, there is still a lot of 2 wire circuits in this house. (No Ground) So GFCI has been added for the temporary fix. But when something happens, that requires a new GFCI, or an outlet, I am going to run new wiring. 12 / 3 or 12/4 with ground. Right now, my circuit breaker panel is bonded to the cold water copper pipes with a bare aluminum twisted cable. So when I upgrade the panel I am having ground rods driven into the ground, and the box grounded to that with copper. And I will be spending the extra few dollars. It is tempting to see those for 50 cents and stock up on them, but from a personal preference and just a safety mind set, spend the extra money and only get what I think I need plus a few extra, and return the extras or keep them in a drawer for a future repair... Though like George Lucas, the NEC will probably change it again.

@Maxtastic101

Is replacing a plug once every 10 years really worth changing everything to commercial grade?

@JL-yo1du

I rarely unplug and plug into outlets, even in the kitchen I have a small extension cord for appliances. I see no need to upgrade in my case. If I were doing rentals it would be different.

@hempcacaogoji831

I'm amazed that people are so cheap, that they put in a lower quality outlet just to save $1.50 on each one.

@SphinctersForever

Great video. For my own home, I have upgraded the old outlets to mostly residential grade "decora" types, and they have worked perfectly for around 2 decades and continue to. I realize that a big family putting a lot of load on outlets could wear them out, but my situation just isn't like that. In this case, the quality improvement of commercial grade isn't really a big deal.

@Lughnerson

At least change some outlets for commercial grade, such any high draw device. These include air conditioners, refrigerators, microwave ovens, outlets where hair dryers are used, and washer / driers. While changing them you will discover how they were wired: back stabbed or screwed down. When I was a child I watched my neighbors' father put an air conditioner in a window. That outlet was where the fire started that ruined their home. Furthermore, having a more reliable outlet may protect the expensive devices helping them last longer.

@kellyvcraig

SIDE NOTE: When I moved into my current house, about fifteen years ago, I replaced every outlet with the better quality ones for all the reasons you stated, plus because I wanted to be sure all the 12 gauge wires were feeding 20 amp plugs.

Even if someone had cheaped out and ran 14 gauge wire, I'd run the better plugs for the same reason I buy insurance.

@mrprosale

Thanks for the info! I choose the commercial outlet every time. If I am paying an electrician $$$ per hour, the extra $1.50 per outlet is minimal as they will last for a long long time... and you won't need to get that done again. If I do it myself, I save time in the long run, better spent at my favorite fishing spot 🙂

@crazysquirrel9425

Install all Hospital Grade outlets and be done with it.

@tf9160

Any time you can add a simple ring of defense for electricity - the pros usually outweigh the cons. Is there a similar difference in wall switches or GFCI outlets to consider commercial grade. Thank you

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